Agadir

"God, my country, and the king": the phrase is inscribed in huge letters in Arabic, on the hill overlooking Agadir, in the manner of Hollywood. It is true that the history of Morocco's most famous seaside resort has a cinematic quality, for better or for worse. In the past, Portuguese and Alaouites, Germans and French, fought over the city. But on February 29, 1960, everything stopped! An earthquake wiped it off the map. From the ruins, a modern sea resort sprang up from the ground. 

Today, hotels, bars and restaurants line the 7 kilometres of blond sandy beaches, to the delight of tourists who have come to enjoy the sun. Because the temperature here is mild all year round, still exceeding 20° in December. Admittedly, the Atlantic is a little chilly in winter. But for those who feel the cold, there are still the hotel swimming pools, a club version for families or a boutique-hotel version for couples. 

A promenade has been laid out along the ocean, rather like the Boulevard de la Croisette, in Cannes. This is where young Moroccans meet on romantic dates, and where tourists stroll at sunset hour. It leads to the marina, set to music by the clink of the sailing masts, and further on to the fishing port, one of the busiest in Morocco with its 2000 boats, a real slice of life. 

First the fishermen come and go, unloading the boats under the mocking gaze of the seagulls; then the mopeds and carts, slaloming between crates of sardines; and finally, the fish, gutted right on the quay, to end up on the menu of the seafront restaurants. Another option to immerse yourself in local culture: the ruins of the kasbah or the medina.

If Agadir is the paradise of seaside tourism, the surroundings are ideal for all kinds of adventure, sporting or natural, cultural or gourmet, to discover at the wheel of a rental car. The roads are safe, the discoveries surprising... At the gates of the city, the new resort of Taghazout Bay bristles with luxury hotels, built around a golf course. For sports or just taking it easy, it is the ideal place to unwind and recharge your batteries. 

For a "more Moroccan" atmosphere, you have to head further north. The coastal road highlights the dazzling encounter between the foothills of the Atlas Mountains and the beaches of the Atlantic. You are back to rural Morocco: veiled women working in the fields stretching to the seashore, men perched on tired donkeys and children tending sheep; anglers too, fishing for sea bass or sea bream. From time to time, as you round a bend, high cliffs unveil the surf spots where friends come to wait for the right wave.

Morocco also cultivates its traditions inland. Children improvise as pedlars, selling delicious jars of thyme honey, with its unique flavour. In recent years, the arid hills of the hinterland have also become covered with argan trees. Their nuts produce the famous oil that benefits the local growers, like at the Tighanimine cooperative. The cosmetic version beautifies French women; the food version invades the chicest restaurants. Morocco has plenty of surprises in store...

Sites et monuments:

• The promenade along the beach, fringed with palm trees, offers the charms of the Atlantic at the end of the day.
• The ruins of the old kasbah (fortress) are visited religiously, with a thought for the 15,000 victims of the earthquake. There is also a lovely view of the city.
• The medina - with its maze of alleyways and craft shops, it could be a thousand years old. Yet it is only 28 years old, the crazy dream of the artist Coco Polizzi.
• The big souk - colourful fruit and vegetable stalls and fabric and clothing shops to revamp your wardrobe

Parks and Gardens:

• The Valley of the Birds - a beautiful garden with aviaries that are home to hundreds of birds.
• Olhao Garden - an oasis of freshness planted with bougainvillea, which also conceals a small museum dedicated to the 1960 earthquake.
• Ibn Zaydoun Garden, a stone's throw from the town hall. The lungs of Agadir, with alleys planted with century-old trees and varied flora. 

Museum :

• The municipal museum, dedicated to Amazigh (Berber) culture: jewellery, carpets, furniture...

• To the south of Agadir, the nature reserve of Souss-Massa is a delight for nature lovers. On 1200 hectares, grey herons and pink flamingos fly about freely; rare bald ibises too. In November, at the height of the migrations, they put on a real show...
• Between dips in the sea, make a detour to Crocoparc (20 km away). Several hundred Nile crocodiles, as well as iguanas and giant turtles, thrive in pools lined with water lilies and papyrus and in thematic gardens, including a new cactus garden. 

• Tajine - meat or fish, spicy or sweet and accompanied by vegetables, prunes, almonds, simmered in a terracotta dish
• Couscous - semolina accompanied by beef or mutton and vegetables (carrots, courgettes, turnips, beans, peas...)
• Pastilla - a puff pastry filled with chicken or pigeon mince, sprinkled with sugar and cinnamon
• Kefta - beef or lamb skewer or meatballs for a quick lunch on the go
• Fish - from sea bass to sea bream, grilled or baked, they feature prominently on Agadir's restaurant menus.
• Pastries – so much a part of Morocco: gazelle horn (filled with marzipan and scented with orange blossom), almond triangle, ghribiya (shortbread flavoured with lemon or orange zest).
• Thyme honey - one of the specialities of the region, to be discovered along the fittingly-named honey route (north of Agadir)

Drinks 

• Tea - green and very sweet, with mint.
• Squeezed orange juice - a Moroccan classic. Beware of ice cubes and added water, which can cause intestinal problems!
• Wines - These are mainly produced in the regions of Meknes and Casablanca. Among the reds and rosés, Guerrouane is one of the best known.
• Mahia - an aniseed-flavoured fig alcohol that can be enjoyed as a digestive, or in cocktails with fruit juices.

*Alcohol abuse is dangerous for your health, consume in moderation